There is no menubar. All functions have been put in either the F10 menu, or the WinF10 global app menu. (There really weren't many functions to start with.)
Generally, F10 to open the application menu is more common than Alt. But I don't know if there's a shortcut for the "view options" popup, other than some careful tabbing.
The older "classic" Evince version is part of MATE and available as atril
(or atril-gtk3
).